In old houses or in private homes, sometimes you want to put a floor tile. What to do in this case, what technology to take? Stucco on the wooden floor under the tiles – the best solution to the problem. The event – it is uncomplicated, does not require special knowledge in the field of repair, except, of course, the moment of laying the tile itself. Equally effective for solving the problem of laying tiles on the wooden floor 2 technologies:
- Concrete screed on the wooden floor;
- Dry screed floor.
Wooden floor in use can begin to creak, sag, the boards can bend humped, if the apartment on the first floor, come apart, dried out, forming wide cracks. The task of the screed – as much as possible to align the old floor under the tiles and create a monolithic even surface. At the same time it is necessary to ensure that the concrete does not spill into the cracks between the boards, and the boards themselves do not rot during further use.
Preparing the old base
If the boards are sagging and creaking, then the floorboards can be pulled down or re-sewn. A shaky base for tile screed is not the best option. It is not possible to reassemble the entire subfloor, but only the area where there is the most deformation.
- The first method of securing the boards is suitable if the deformation of the boards is not particularly severe. The method of tapping are the joists and each walking board is fixed with self-tapping screws to each joist. Usually this method is enough to level out a little base for the screed.
- If the floorboards are severely separated and between them formed gaps from under which the pull of the cold, there are 2 options. The first is to make a layer of insulation under the screed (this may foam plastic or mineral wool, you can fill a layer of expanded clay). This option is accompanied by additional elevation of the floors. If it is not expedient to raise the floor, you will have to open the floor and the boards will be tightened with wedges, pressed tightly against each other. Obviously rotten boards can be repaired immediately.
Next, it is necessary to arrange a waterproofing layer, so that the liquid concrete does not seep into the wooden floor:
- You can cover the wooden floor with construction polyethylene film. The film should be laid with an overlap of 10 cm, and the overlaps should be glued with tape.
- You can treat the floor with bitumen mastic for indoor use. Modern mastics for home deprived of an unpleasant odor, so they can be used for waterproofing of residential premises. Mastic is a so-called waterproofing trough – that is, the old floor is smeared with a call on the walls at 2-3 cm.
Preparing to pour the screed
Still, despite the preparatory work carried out screed under the tile, it is better to reinforce. To do this, over the waterproofing (but so as not to damage it), laid reinforcing wire mesh. The grid should not be attached to the base, so as not to damage the waterproofing. Under the tiles, you can reinforce the concrete with fiberglass. The following steps depend on the budget of the repair work. You can buy for pouring screed self-levelling mixture, which will cost more, but does not require scrupulous installation of beacons. It is possible to engage in the device of beacons.
How to make the beacons
On the walls, using a laser level, a height line is drawn to which the screed will be poured. To make beacons of concrete mortar we lay longitudinal strips with a spacing of 1-1,2 m. Between the wall and the last beacon distance should be 20 to 30 cm. A metal profile is placed on each concrete strip, pressing it into the mortar until it is at the same level as the line previously marked on the wall.
Preparation of Mortar
To prepare the mortar, take a mixture of cement and sifted river sand at a ratio of 3 to 1. The first time mixing cement with the help of a drill and a special fixing nozzle. The kneading lasts about 5 minutes, and then you need to wait another 5 minutes. Then repeat the kneading once more. A plasticizer and fiberglass can be added to the mortar. Preparation of the mixture is made according to the instructions printed on the package.
Pouring the mixture
The mortar is poured over the entire floor at one time, during one day. Bubbles are squeezed out of the poured foundation with a needle roller. The mixture is levelled with a wide rule on the screeds. After a few hours, you can remove the screed, and the remaining grooves filled with mortar. The screed is moistened with water and covered with polyethylene. You can lay tiles after a month, when the screed gets full strength.